The first recorded Burns Supper was held a mere five years after the poet's death, in the summer of 1801. Then, as now, its purpose was to recollect and celebrate his life and work. The venue was Burns Cottage in Alloway, which was an ale-house at that time; present were nine of Burns' closest friends; a commemorative speech was given; haggis was served. It was determined that future annual suppers should be held on Burns' birthday, which was erroneously thought to be January 29th (in fact it was four days earlier).

By 1810 the nine friends had been joined by many others and were known as the Alloway Burns Club. Other clubs sprang up in Greenock, Paisley and Kilmarnock, and by 1830 Burns Suppers were widespread all over Scotland. Today, the Burns Federation, based in Kilmarnock, lists nearly 400 affiliated clubs throughout the world.

The programme at Burns Suppers varies only slightly from one to another. When the company is seated, the evening's Chairman says a few words of welcome and then recites The Selkirk Grace (or calls upon a clergyman to do so, if one is present).

Cock-a-leekie soup is served. Then comes the haggis (served with 'champit tatties' and 'bashed neeps' or 'clapshot' (i.e. mashed potatoes and mashed turnips/turnips and carrots'). It is borne in on an ashette, preceded by a piper, and (traditionally) followed by someone carrying two bottles of whisky. Having processed round the room the haggis is placed before the Chairman, who invites the piper to join him in a glass of whisky, and pours some over the haggis itself. [It is customary, and sensible, to drink whisky throughout the meal, by the way]. They raise their glasses in the Gaelic toast slainte mhath and drain them. I once attended a smart Burns Supper in Aberdeenshire, where the piper toppled over as he drained his glass and fell upon the haggis itself, dead drunk! Then either the Chairman or a nominated guest recites Burns immortal address To a Haggis.

It is customary at some dinners to serve a main course (usually roast beef) after the haggis, but purists frown on this. A traditional dessert like 'Tipsy Laird' (sherry trifle) or 'Cranachan' (cream with whisky, heather honey, oatmeal and soft fruits) is then presented, and possibly Scottish cheese and oatcakes. The Loyal Toast concludes the meal.

Now come the speeches. First, following, a brief intermission and an introduction by the Chairman, is 'The Immortal Memory'. This can be light-hearted and humourous or seriously literary, but, as one expert puts it "the speeches have one aim in common: to make everyone in the room want to go home and read Burns" (Nancy Marshall).

After the Immortal Memory there is often a musical interlude, usually on the pipes, then a short 'Appreciation' of the last speech is delivered, either by the Chairman or a guest. This is followed by the two other 'compulsory' speeches: 'The Toast to the Lasses' and 'The Reply'.

The Toast to the Lasses was originally merely a vote of thanks to the ladies who had prepared the food for the evening. Today it is usually a humourous and somewhat disrespectful observation on the Fair Sex. The Reply, which is delivered by a woman, turns the tables, detailing mens' lack of virtue. Both speeches should draw inspiration from The Bard.

Other toasts can follow - a common one is 'The Toast to the [Scottish] Nation', which will be included in the Society's Supper programme. Various songs and recitations from Burns' work follow, or intersperse, the speeches.

"At this point", concludes one Guide to Burns Suppers, "unless a dance is planned for the rest of the evening, the supper draws to a close and the guests depart having thoroughly enjoyed a unique and uplifting occasion". Quite so.